20th Hueco Rock Rodeo

This is my first blog of many more to come. I'm psyched to write to everyone about my climbing journey and the experiences that happen on the way. I recently came back from a trip to Hueco Tanks to climb and compete in the 20th Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo. For me, this was one of my all-time favorite events. Of course the climbing was amazing - gymnastic and crimpy - but there was so much more to it that just made all the puzzle pieces fit together.

Hueco sunset

I arrived to Hueco on Wednesday and couldn't have been more excited to be back here. I was in Hueco last April and was looking forward to climb in much colder weather. I wanted to get in a few good climbing days before the Rock Rodeo. Last April I spent the majority of my time in North Mountain as well as going to East Spur for a day. Going into this trip, my goal was to have fun and climb well, but in the back of my mind were still some unfinished projects I wanted to take care of. The main one was "Chablanke" v11/v12. I had worked this problem for a couple of days last April and had gotten all of the moves the first day. I was psyched nonetheless - I knew it was a really hard problem and I had to fight on it, but it still felt doable. Last year, I left without the send, but had it part of my motivation until I came back. All year, Chablanke was in the back of my mind. Heel hooks, toe hooks, crimps, pinches - everything brought me back to that problem. And I wanted it. A little too much...

Trying Chablanke

The first day we arrived to Hueco in February, I immediately wanted to give Chablanke a go. I had felt stronger going into this trip and was hopeful. I had watched video after video, trying to get the problem dialed in my head. I got on and needed a few tries to get the moves down. Every move felt so much easier than last year, except for one - the move after you stick the tiny, sharp pinch after the heel hook. I decided to try it again the next day, hoping it'll go a little better. The next day came, and the first go was probably my best yet, but I fell and ripped the skin on my right thumb open. It was time to move on. I was disappointed and felt pretty defeated. I was pissed and felt so close, yet so far away.

Trying Chablanke some more...

Next, we decided to get on problems that I hadn't been on before, trying to climb as many classics as possible. Although I wanted to send Chablanke, it was good to get away and just climb a bunch of different problems. At that moment, my mind did a 360 degree turn and it was a turning point for me. It wasn't about the send or the grade or any of that. I didn't care about that anymore. It was all about just having an amazing time and having fun, climbing because you love the sport, and learning from your downfalls. Of course, it's fun working something really hard and giving everything to try and send it. But that can be exhausting - both mentally and physically.

Me spotting my coach, Johnny 

Climbing Roger in the Shower v10/v11

Climbing Short Order Cook v6

After a much needed rest day came the 20th Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo! I found out that I was going to be climbing on East Mountain and I couldn't have been more happy and excited. Both the Advanced and Open categories were climbing on this mountain and I was stoked to be able to climb with super strong, talented people. I was also excited to be on a mountain I hadn't been on before and to see what amazing lines were there. Looking at the list of problems on my score card that my group could climb, I was psyched, but nervous, not having been on any of them or seeing any of them before. I went over to "Hector in a Blender" v7, and sent that problem right off the bat. Next, was "Ides of March" v6 and flashed that. We needed to complete 6 climbs and I had already knocked off two. Then, we went over to "Man Gum" v9. I gave it a few tries and knew I could do it - it was all crimps - my favorite. I rested for a little and then gave it a go, sending it! I was psyched and the best part was, I had so much fun climbing it. I think that not thinking about sending or the grades actually made me climb better. I don't think I stopped smiling once that day.

Johnny smiling before his send go

It was about late afternoon and I still had plenty of time to get more climbs in before we had to hike back. I later got on "Something Different" v8 and sent that very quickly. I basically had to campus the entire top half of that problem - not seeing any feet. That was a proud send. It was around noon and I had about five hours still to climb. I only needed two more climbs for the comp. Now, that doesn't sound hard, but my oh my...it was HARD! I went over to "Ultra Mega" v8 and had no juice left...(Next day I fell on the top out). I tried "Crimping Christ on the Cross" v10 and saw Angie Payne CRUSH it along with seeing other really strong climbers such as: Nina Williams and Paige Claassen. I left motivated and inspired after watching them. By the end of the day, I was worked. We hiked out and got on the bus to go back to the Ranch. We watched the dyno comp, talked with friends, and stood by the insane, monstrous bon fire.

I ended up getting the same amount of points as Layla Mammi (3005 points). Because there was a tie, they broke the tie breaker with number of falls. With 4 more falls than her, I ended up 2nd in the Advanced category. I was happy and satisfied with the result. It was one of, if not, the most fun day I've had climbing and that itself was something to be proud about.

The next day (which was also our last), I woke up not able to feel my arms, my back, everything...I was SO sore! But, because it was our last day, I wanted to still go out to the mountain and climb. We went back to East Mountain with some crushers staying at the Hacienda. I had to try extra hard on everything, but I had so much fun, especially being with some amazing people.

The Hacienda

After this trip, it reminded me how much more I love climbing outside. I love Hueco and the uniqueness of the place. I would go back in a heartbeat and am counting down the days until I can go back. This trip was beyond motivating, inspiring, and just plain fun. Congrats to everyone who competed and thanks so much to the people who made this event possible! Hueco...you will be missed! :)